A timetable for growing aubergines in a cold greenhouse (or outside).

This timetable is based on growing in the southern half of Britain - and should be adjusted for more northern parts.

So, what else is there to say?

Quite a lot! First, sowing the seeds. I use my own mixture comprising equal parts of garden soil, sand and sifted leaf mould or sifted compost. I sow the seeds on the surface, cover them with as little compost as possible and water the pot from below.

This gives enough water to ensure germination and I do not water again until the seedlings are well through. The mixture contains ample nutrients not only for germination but also for growing the seedlings on to the four leaf stage. If you do not make up your own mixture the appropriate John Innes formulations are perfectly acceptable - if you have a reliable source. I, myself, tend to avoid soil-less composts because they are so difficult to re-wet if you inadvertently let them dry out. And who does not do that now and again?

Second, feeding the growing plants. The mixture I use for potting on is the same as for seed sowing. Once the plants are in their final pots there is sufficient nourishment to last them through until the second or third fruit is set.

At that stage I use a high potash feed (any feed suitable for tomatoes, roses or chrysanthemums will do, or try comfrey liquid) at one quarter the recommended strength - but applied at four times the recommended frequency. I used to apply at half strength twice as often as recommended but "changed down" this year and have found the change successful. I am a great believer in the little and often principle - plants are like babies!

And third in the list of things to do - pinch out the top of the plant when it is about 18 inches (45 cm) high to encourage it to bush out. But once you have three or four fruits set remove additional side shoots as they develop.