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There's a theory that George Mallory got to the summit of Everest years before Hillary did.  When his body was found no one was sure whether he had died on his way to the summit or had made it to the top and was on his way down.  He was discovered with all his equipment but the photograph of his wife wasn't found.   He had vowed to leave this photo on Everest's summit should he succeed in his attempt

Madame Arcati
Originally Posted by Madame Arcati:

There's a theory that George Mallory got to the summit of Everest years before Hillary did.  When his body was found no one was sure whether he had died on his way to the summit or had made it to the top and was on his way down.  He was discovered with all his equipment but the photograph of his wife wasn't found.   He had vowed to leave this photo on Everest's summit should he succeed in his attempt

I didn't know that bit Madame Arcati. Really makes you wonder doesn't it. The Sherpa documentary suggested they could have made it by the final approach route they planned to take, without oxygen. They still haven't found Irving's body sadly.

FM
Originally Posted by James:

Fascinating stuff, I knew there were a few lost souls on Everest but not that many, so sad about that woman and her husband  

It is grimly fascinating James  There are increasing deaths as more climbers attempt the summit without receiving adequate training. Its increasingly becoming big business. Theres even talk of putting a handrail up 

FM

No, poor old Irving is still lying somewhere on the mountain. Apparently he was the one with the camera and it's hoped that if they find him his camera may contain a photograph of him and Mallory taken at the summit.  I like to think they made it.

 

You're right about it becoming big business, too.  I didn't know about the hand-rail though.  I'm surprised Stannah haven't got in on the act yet.

Madame Arcati
Originally Posted by Madame Arcati:

No, poor old Irving is still lying somewhere on the mountain. Apparently he was the one with the camera and it's hoped that if they find him his camera may contain a photograph of him and Mallory taken at the summit.  I like to think they made it.

 

You're right about it becoming big business, too.  I didn't know about the hand-rail though.  I'm surprised Stannah haven't got in on the act yet.

 

Seriously, I think an 80 year old climbed this year. Mind you, he was in great shape, better than me.

 

Indeed...wouldn't it be wonderful if they could find Irving's remains and have confirmation. 

FM

It would be great, Roger.  It wouldn't take too much away from Hillary and Tensing either because even if it was proved that Mallory and Irving were the first to reach the summit it wouldn't count as a successful attempt because apparently you have to make it up to the top and back down again safely for it to be counted.  So Hillary and Tensing would still be the first to do that.

Madame Arcati
Originally Posted by Madame Arcati:

It would be great, Roger.  It wouldn't take too much away from Hillary and Tensing either because even if it was proved that Mallory and Irving were the first to reach the summit it wouldn't count as a successful attempt because apparently you have to make it up to the top and back down again safely for it to be counted.  So Hillary and Tensing would still be the first to do that.

That would be perfect. Now you mention Mallory's letters to his wife, ahhh... its come back to me. There was an ITV programme a while back which told the story. They read out Mallory's letters, it was a real love story as I remember

 

 

FM

I once attended a talk by Matt Dickinson, and met him afterwards. Dickinson used to be a documentary film-maker, and was part of an expedition (which included Brian Blessed) which attempted to climb Everest from the North (Tibetan) side in 1996. As a major storm descended, their group became a side-show as several teams on both sides of the mountain (including several major names in climbing) ran into trouble resulting in 8 deaths, Dickinson, accompanied by professional climber Alan Hinkes and their sherpas, were the only climbers to reach the peak and return safely during that period, and he wrote the book "The Death Zone" about it.

 

During their ascent, Dickinson and Hinkes passed the bodies of the Indian team ahead of them. Dickinson had photos of them, and he talked very openly and frankly about the moral issues involved both in taking them and showing them to an audience, The fact is that death is a sad reality on Everest. Unfortunately, some climbers had got over-confident in the years up to 1996 and the mountain had become (as Roger says) virtually a tourist attraction. A lot of people on the mountain that year really shouldn't have been there. Still the case, sadly...

Eugene's Lair
Originally Posted by Roger the Alien (fka noseyrosie):

Oh my goodness Eugene what an awful tragedy  

 

It must have been fascinating to hear Matt Dickinson talk though. Suppose we're drawn to death and the macabre?

 

He must be haunted by such an experience. You'd wonder what drives them to do it really. 

Dickinson is indeed fascinating to listen to. He definitely caught the "bug" regarding dangerous sports, but he was always very conscious of the moral issues involved, such as the possible effect of his activities on his partner and family. Similary, he's constantly aware of the moral issues related to his journalism (such as the photos mentioned previously). Presumably war reporters go through a similar thought process. Yes, it is a very difficult subject to deal with, but Dickinson - to his credit - addresses it very thoughtfully and seriously.

 

If you get the chance (and feel up to it), I would recommend "The Death Zone". Jon Krakauer's book "In Thin Air" is the famous text on that period, as his guides (one of whom was the mountaineering "great", Rob Hall) were among the dead. However Dickinson's book serves as a counterpoint to that, and knowing about the tragedy unfolding elsewhere on the mountain makes his and Hinkes's achievement even more remarkable.

Eugene's Lair

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